Chicken Drumsticks, Ethiopian Style

Check out these Ethiopian chicken drumsticks from Hank Shaw! The berbere spice mix is outstanding. ~Elise

This dish sounds a lot more exotic than it really is. It is a recipe I’ve been making, on and off, for 20 years, and it’s nothing more than chicken drumsticks coated in oil or melted butter, dusted with a dry spice rub and baked — or slow-cooked on the barbecue.

What makes this recipe Ethiopian is the spice mix, which is called berbere (ber-BERRY). I learned how to make it from my boss at the first restaurant I ever worked at, the Horn of Africa in Madison, Wisconsin. My boss, a tough old Eritrean named Meselesh Ayele (Eritrea used to be a province of Ethiopia, and is now an independent country), told me that berbere was the original curry, that the Indians copied the Ethiopians.

That was a common refrain in the kitchen: Ethiopia invented everything, and the rest of the world just copied it. They happen to be right when it comes to coffee, but I’m not sure I believe her on the curry thing. What I can tell you is that berbere is indeed a magical spice mix: Think of the sweet aromas of Moroccan food with a muscular punch of garlic and chile. No two berbere mixtures are the same, and cooks guard their secret mixtures with as much vigor as Southerners guard their barbecue recipes.

But there are a few constants: chiles and/or paprika, lots of garlic, black pepper, salt and ginger. Meselesh’s berbere always had a healthy hit of cardamom and fenugreek, too. Without those two ingredients, it just doesn’t smell Ethiopian to me. Other spices not in my berbere, but which are perfectly normal, include anise seed, turmeric, cinnamon, allspice, coriander and dried herbs like oregano and rue. Tinkering is not only allowed, but encouraged.

Cook the chicken how you want. You will need to reach an internal temperature of at least 175° for it to taste right, but I like to cook them slow and low until the meat is almost falling off the bone. The longer you cook, the more you need to baste with all that chicken-y goodness that renders out of the drumsticks.

I was a line cook when I made this recipe as a part of my rotation, which means I didn’t make much money. So for a cheap dinner I used to eat these drumsticks with a little white rice while watching the Wisconsin Badgers play on TV, drinking Leinenkugels or Point beer. Simple pleasures from a different time.

 

Chicken Drumsticks, Ethiopian Style Recipe

You can do this with chicken wings or thighs, too, but don't use breasts — they will dry out.

Ingredients

• 3-4 pounds chicken legs, thighs or wings
• 2 Tbsp peanut oil, or melted butter (or ghee)
• Salt
• Lemons or limes for serving

Spice Mix:

• 2 Tbsp sweet paprika
• 1 Tbsp hot paprika, or 1-2 teaspoons cayenne
• 2 teaspoons garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 teaspoon ground fenugreek
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

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Chicken Stew with Walnut and Pomegranate Sauce (Fesenjan)

Here is a stew made for fall! This Chicken Stew with Walnut and Pomegranate Sauce recipe is a classic preparation in Persian cooking, going by the name “Fesenjan”.

Chicken pieces are first browned and then slowly cooked in a sauce with ground toasted walnuts and pomegranate molasses. You might not normally think to make a sauce with walnuts and pomegranates, but it’s a perfect combination!


The toasted walnuts are rich and warm and the pomegranate molasses sharp and berry toned. Cooked slowly with the chicken, the sauce is spectacular. Bowl-licking good.

The only ingredient that might be a little unusual is the pomegranate molasses. You can make your own with pomegranate juice (see our recipe for pomegranate molasses), or look for it at Whole Foods or a store that carries Middle Eastern ingredients.

 

Chicken Stew with Walnut and Pomegranate Sauce (Fesenjan) Recipe

Make your own pomegranate molasses by simmering 1 cup of pomegranate juice until it reduces to 5 Tbsp of syrup.

Ingredients

• 1 to 2 large yellow onions, chopped, (3 cups)
• 2 Tbps unsalted butter
• 3 Tbsp olive oil
• 5 Tbsp pomegranate molasses
• 1/2 pound walnut halves (about 2 cups)
• 2 lbs boneless skinless chicken thighs and/or breasts, trimmed of excess fat, cut into medium size pieces, patted dry and salted
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 2 Tbsp plus 2 teaspoons of sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• Salt
• 1/2 cup fresh pomegranate arils for garnish (optional)

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Yellow Split Pea Soup

As winter soups go, split pea is definitely in the stick-to-your-ribs category.

Recently, I discovered that green split peas also come in a yellow variety. Simmer these along with a handful of Indian spices, and you have a bright, filling vegetarian supper.

Look for yellow split peas at any well-stocked grocery store, especially one with a good selection of Indian ingredients.

Develop the flavor in this simple soup by cooking some onion, celery, garlic, and fresh ginger in the pot before adding the spices (turmeric, cumin, and coriander!).

Stir the yellow peas into the mixture, then let this soup simmer for a full hour and a half.

The peas grow in the pot (and they thicken even more if you store the soup overnight), so add more water whenever you need to maintain a soupy consistency.

Soup should nourish and warm you in the chilly months. Bowls of yellow split peas, garnished with yogurt or sour cream, a sprinkle of cilantro, and pepitas for salty crunch, fill the belly in the most pleasant way.

Yellow Split Pea Soup Recipe

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 stalk celery, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
• 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, finely chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste
• 1 jalapeno or other hot pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1 pound (2 1/4 cups) yellow split peas
• 2 quarts (8 cups) water, or more if needed
• 1 bay leaf
• Juice of 1/2 lemon, or more to taste
• 1/2 cup yogurt or sour cream, to serve (optional; omit if making a vegan soup)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, to serve
• 3 tablespoons roasted, salted pepitas, to serve

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Spicy Lamb Stew with Chickpeas

When you add lots of spices to a dish, sometimes that’s all you can taste. But I’ve found that lamb is one ingredient that can handle a lot of spice.

This hearty lamb stew is well-seasoned with cinnamon, cumin, coriander, and cayenne. The meat keeps its delicious and distinctive taste, while the seasonings add intrigue to every bite.

I think that leg of lamb, cut into cubes, makes the best stew. You don’t need a butcher to do it: Buy a pre-boned leg of lamb and cut it into cubes yourself.

Start by cutting apart the smaller muscles that make up the leg — when you remove the leg from its wrapping, you’ll see that these muscles are loosely held together with deep cracks running between them. Separate these with your knife, following those cracks. Then you’ll have several smaller pieces, which are easy to cut into stew-sized chunks.

Add browned onions and all the seasonings to the pot along with the cubes of lamb, and send it to the oven for a couple of hours.

This stew is finished with chickpeas, golden raisins, and cilantro, which give the dish the flavors of a classic Moroccan lamb tagine. The spices mellow as they cook and the stew just gets better if you eat it a day or two later.

Spicy Lamb Stew with Chickpeas Recipe

You can buy pre-cut lamb stew meat instead of a leg of lamb. However, this is might be cut from tougher pieces of meat, and may take longer to cook. Keep cooking the stew until the meat is fork tender.

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 pounds (1.1 kilos) boneless leg of lamb, strings or netting removed
• 1 teaspoon (5 g) salt
• 1/2 teaspoon (2 1/2 g) ground black pepper
• 2 sweet or Spanish onions
• 4 tablespoons (60 ml) olive oil
• 1 clove garlic, chopped
• 2 shallots, chopped
• 1 teaspoon (5 g) ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon (5 g) ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon (5 g) ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon (2 1/2 g) ground allspice
• 1/2 teaspoon (2 1/2 g) cayenne pepper (skip this if you don't like spicy foods)
• 1 can (14 to 16 ounces, 475 ml) whole peeled tomatoes, crushed in a bowl, or chopped tomatoes
• 2 cups (475 ml) water
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/2 cup (75 g) golden raisins
• 2 cans (15 ounces, or 420 g, each) chickpeas, drained
• 1/4 cup (5 g) chopped fresh cilantro

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Bloody Mary Smoothie

This month we’re sharing a few recipes from our friend Tess Masters, The Blender Girl! Tess is our go-to gal for fantastic vegan and gluten-free blender recipes. Check out her newest book The Perfect Blend, available now on Amazon.

Have you ever tried making a savory smoothie?

This non-alcoholic, breakfast-worthy spin on a traditional Bloody Mary cocktail is a splendid (s’blended!) introduction to veggie-based smoothies.

Loaded with flavor, this bold blend will seduce you with every sip. Add more Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, horseradish, and lemon juice for an even bolder experience.

To elevate the experience, try salting the rim of your glass and serving with a celery stick. You won’t even miss the vodka.

Get the book! The Blender Girl Smoothies: 100 Gluten-Free, Vegan, and Paleo-Friendly Recipes by Tess Masters

Bloody Mary Smoothie Recipe

Ingredients

• 3 medium tomatoes, chopped
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1/2 cup (66g) diced celery (about 2 ribs)
• 1/2 medium avocado, pitted and peeled
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh horseradish (not horseradish sauce), plus more to taste
• 2 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, plus more to taste
• 10 dashes Tabasco sauce, plus more to taste
• 2 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to taste
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped red onion
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 1 teaspoon natural salt
• Pinch of freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
• 2 cups (250g) ice cubes

Optional boosters:

• 2 teaspoons cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon chia seeds
• 1 teaspoon goji powder

Special equipment:

• Blender

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Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus

Whenever I’m in the mood to give oven-roasted asparagus a little pizzazz – for Easter brunch or Mother’s Day, for instance — I wrap thin slices of prosciutto around the asparagus spears. This is such an easy way to make the roasted asparagus look fancy!

I also love how the salty flavors of the prosciutto complement the subtly sweet flavor of roasted asparagus.

For this dish, look for asparagus spears that are pretty thick (about 16 to 18 spears per pound). Thin asparagus spears are more difficult to wrap with the prosciutto and tend to dry out too easily in the oven.

To prepare the asparagus, snap off the rough, woody ends at the bottom of the spears. Sometimes, I’ll snap off as much as an inch and a half of the asparagus.

I don’t like seeing food go to waste, so usually save these piece for a stir-fry. (Peel off the rough exterior with a paring knife or vegetable peeler, then slice them into ½-inch pieces.)

Packaged prosciutto is usually sliced very thinly, so you may find that the slices rip apart as you take them out of the package. Don’t stress about it too much. Even a little torn, the prosciutto will still look great after cooking. If any pieces tear too much to use, you can just eat them as a snack!

I prefer serving the asparagus while it is still vibrant green, so I pull it out of the oven after 8 or 9 minutes of roasting. If you want the spears and prosciutto to be more crisp, leave the asparagus in the oven for a few minutes longer.

Sprinkle the roasted asparagus with lemon zest and freshly grated parmesan for extra flavor!

Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus Recipe

Prosciutto is naturally salty, so you shouldn’t need to add any more salt to the asparagus.
If you want to make a bigger batch, just double up the ingredients in the recipe and use 2 large baking sheets for roasting.

Ingredients

• 1 pound asparagus, preferably thick spears
• 3 to 3 1/2 ounces sliced prosciutto
• 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Ground black pepper
• Lemon zest, optional
• Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, optional

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Deviled Ham with Pickled Jalapeños

Do any of you follow Mad Men? I watch an occasional episode, more captivated by the outfits and decor than anything else. (Wait, I recognize that wall hanging! My mother used to wear dresses like that! My father wore those skinny ties!) So delightfully retro. Like deviled ham.

I can just imagine some deviled ham canapés being served at one of those 60s parties. Being just a kid during that time I would more likely have found a deviled ham sandwich along with carrot sticks and a thermos, packed in my metal Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea lunch box.

Unlike many retro foods that have happily skipped their way into the sunset (I’m talking about you, green jello salad), deviled ham is one that deserves to stick around. It’s so good! Especially this version, a Southwestern twist with pickled jalapeños supplying the heat.

Deviled Ham with Pickled Jalapeños Recipe

Ingredients

• 7 ounces boneless ham steak, cut into cubes (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 1 small stalk celery, chopped
• 1/4 cup sliced pickled jalapenos
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 4 teaspoons chopped green onions
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 8 slices white sandwich bread, crusts removed
• 1 1/2 cups thinly sliced iceberg or butter lettuce

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